Points for style and gastronomic creativity in Atlanta...

Before taking off to Madrid for the year, I have tried to do my best to explore some of what Atlanta has to offer in terms of a creative, forward-thinking restaurant experience, both in design and gastronomy. Of course any city has it rather difficult when following New York in this category (my current tape measure as I just moved home after spending a year there), but then again, perhaps the one thing New York seems to lack, a long tradition of a culinary "style" or "ethos" all of its own (as its most unique quality is the very sort of mix of cultures that defines it), Atlanta, as the capital of the South, does indeed nurture. I can't say that boiled peanuts, southern fried chicken, sweet potato casserole, fried okra, pork-fat collard greens, and homemade GA peach cobbler are always on my menu (or I wouldn't stay awake long enough to write this), but Atlanta restaurants such as Empire State South are doing a pretty good job of waxing nostalgic for this sort of southern tradition while incorporating clever new spins.

A few weeks ago I accompanied my dad on one of our "dates," a tradition we've kept alive since he used to leave work to visit me for a lunch date in my high chair, to Empire State South where we began with the "In Jars" appetizer: "pork rillette, trout mousse, pickles, pimento cheese & bacon marmalade, boiled peanut hummus." While the pork rillete didn't prove to be a texture I prefer of my pig meat (but I applaud the creative effort), the other three jars were pretty killer- and local GA rainbow trout, pimento cheese, and boiled peanuts are certainly three things Southerners must get right to earn that title (and Bon Appetit was quick to include the boiled peanut hummus in its May addition). I won't pull the food blogger card and ramble on about each morsel of my meal, but definitely don't miss the "peeky toe crab salad" if you go!

In terms of design, for those of you who have seen the space, you know a hotel lobby in Midtown is not exactly convenient or ideal (especially when a parking garage is involved). However, the round bar in the center of the space and the understated, woody interior really fits the "fresh, natural" culinary aesthetic. I'm not going to write all about Ryan Smith, the chef Hugh Acheson appointed, (although he seems like a very cool dude) or the tastings they offer and how much press the place has gotten... you can find that on their website- but I will say I think it deserves its accolades- go and try it! And for those southerners who know the Five & Ten in Athens, this is your place...

Empire State South: 999 Peachtree Street, Midtown

"In Jars"

Pic from the website of design

Next up on the list boasts a cuisine not particularly championed by Atlanta or the South to say the least, but one of my favorites for fresh seafood and immaculate preparation: Japanese superstar "MF Sushi" of the Kinjo brothers' "Magic Finger'd" fame. I must say I feel pretty snobbish and unauthentic not having first ventured out to the the original restaurant on Ponce de Leon, which I'm sure is much cooler... but because I am lazy and my mom was treating (yep, two of many dates with parents who love good food, no shame), we opted for the bigger, obviously much bling-i-er MF Buckhead.

Upon first penetrating the silky, shredded "screen" at the front, I was pretty blown away by the space... for Atlanta, I should qualify. Yes, there could be more natural light, and no, I am usually not at all turned on by condo-building-lobby real estate, but the spotlighted sushi bar, the all-white and neutral-tones, and the sky-high bar stretch your eye across the space as the design appears to take advantage of every last inch. Go and see it... I can't do much more justice in words. One thing I am very sad not to have seen though is the Omakase room upstairs for a private chef's tasting... that would be pretty sweet.

I must say, overall, I give the design more points than the food and service. While we did enjoy some excellent sake and the miso black cod was pretty stellar as an entree (although it is no Nobu or Matsuhisa... but you must know that going in), we definitely had some big misses as they were out of the snapper sushi and the yellowfin app was not nearly as "fine" as it should have been. Also, while I will forever pine over the loss of Il Laboratorio di Gelato just down my block when I moved away from NYC, MF did at least a wonderful job with the green tea and black sesame flavors of the ice cream, even if it was way too icey and mealy a texture... perhaps I'll just always find ice cream disappointing since light, creamy gelato has my entire heart. Overall, I'd say go to check out the space and eat great quality fish, but do beware you are paying Buckhead design and real estate prices... this is not a post about the best bang for your buck in Atlanta's Japanese food scene (which would most definitely be Taka)!

MF Buckhead- 3280 Peachtree Street (Inside Terminus Bldg, next to Bricktops)

*I've included a couple of bad iphone shots of mine below, but for some amazing photography, check out Mark Petko's "Spoonfed" blog entry on MF!

View of cocktail bar at right, sushi bar at left, when you walk in front door

View of sushi bar from dimly lit back tables

Green tea and Black Sesame ice creams